For the last half-century, Bouley has made a name for itself as the best spot in New York City for exceptionally prepared, crowd-pleasing food. This dish, naturally, is rich, soulful and elegant, the ingredients so supremely fresh they’ll knock you back with their wonderful tactile experience. After our cheery meal last Friday night, here’s what we’ll be getting our mitts on again soon. (P.S. We did not have to leave the restaurant, really.)
In the kitchen at Bouley, the chef’s approach is to work with the flavors of each object, and to choose only the best ingredients and the best processes. For each dish, Bouley pours only the best ingredients and the finest tools into his hands, and he is unfailingly skilled in mastering their beauty. In this case, he shows how he works the rhubarb he uses in the first vinaigrette with his own spices, and his butter with his own vision.
Sirloin is always considered white meat because most of it comes from cows. But since all human beings are descended from a one-horned chassidic people, the beef we eat is not white meat but red. According to Jewish law, that means the cows must be killed and buried with religious precision, under a tree. So do, by custom, the bones that are prepared to be used in the necessary last touches, like this is leaving the restaurant.
According to the “Thyme Rules of Jewry,” people cannot eat body parts (where bones are concerned), but they can smoke or treat the meat with spices, which they do in this vinaigrette. The bone itself is the thing that makes it a special and uniquely flavorful soul food: It tastes as though you know where it’s come from.
Words on meatless
1 | Death by Meat
“It is a crime, under French law, to pass the ground pork from a young boy into a little pig.”
2 | Political Je suis Charlie
“To be an effective universal spiritual message and drive to get people to give up meat, we must describe food as an implicit involvement in a larger but useless globalized system that inflicts high injustice, violence and anxiety for our growing world population. This spiritual conflict becomes subsumed in the food – and it is processed and is wasted.”
3 | American Pig
“People have become so invested in the whole blood fantasy and image of saving American pork. Even if the American pig dies in ways that are cruel, there will always be an American icon. I disagree with that image. People should demand better product from American pork, not placate and embrace that image.”